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When assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, tucked near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant securing such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.